I wasn’t really expecting much from Calabria.
Honestly, I just wanted to get away for a while, learn a little cooking, and immerse myself in an exotic corner of Italy far from my usual routine. What I didn’t expect was to completely fall under its spell.
The magic started almost immediately.
This happened as soon as I arrived at the airport, I was greeted by giant murals of crystal-clear beaches. I remember wondering, Are those beaches really here?
As it turns out, they absolutely are.
A driver was waiting for me with a sign bearing my name, and I had an entire shuttle to myself on the way to our first group dinner. The drive alone was breathtaking. Rolling hills, endless greenery, and flashes of impossibly blue sea appeared around every turn.
By the time I arrived, I was already excited for the week ahead.
Arrival in Calabria
Coastal views from the drive
First Taste of Calabria
Our welcome dinner did not disappoint.
It was there that I had my first taste of ‘nduja (pronounced en-DOO-ya), Calabria’s famous spicy spreadable sausage. Made from pork and plenty of Calabrian chili peppers, it’s rich, smoky, fiery, and completely addictive. It’s one of the region’s most beloved specialties and the perfect introduction to Calabria’s bold culinary identity.
That evening would become memorable for another reason.
Around the table sat people from different places and different walks of life. Technically, we were strangers.
For maybe an hour.
Then something magical happened.
By the end of the evening, it felt as though we had known one another for years.
Perhaps it was because we all arrived with the same curiosity and excitement. Perhaps it was the food. Perhaps it was the wine.
Or perhaps that’s simply what happens when people gather around a table united by a shared love of food, travel, learning, and adventure.
We laughed, shared stories, exchanged travel experiences, and before we knew it, friendships had begun to form.
Italian Culinary Institute
The next morning, the real adventure began at the Italian Culinary Institute.
Our first day was packed. We dove into theory lessons while sampling an incredible range of regional products: cheeses, wines, olive oils, truffles, and local specialties that showcased the richness of Calabrian cuisine.
What made the experience even more memorable was the setting.
Perched above the sparkling coastline, the school offered some of the most spectacular views I’ve ever seen from a classroom.
A special mention goes to the institute’s president, Master Chef John Nocita, whose passion for Italian cuisine was infectious. He was engaging, knowledgeable, and endlessly encouraging.
One quote from him stayed with me all week:
“You’ll learn to cook in a way that would impress an Italian”
I’m far from that level. But yes I can whip up a better carbonara , puttanesca and bolognese. And the whole experience was outright priceless .
The entire team helped create an experience that felt less like a class and more like being welcomed into a family.
A heartfelt thank you to Chef Vlad, Chef Tommaso, and Chef Rachel, whose patience, expertise, encouragement, and good humor guided us through every lesson. Their passion for food was contagious, and they somehow made learning both educational and fun.
A special thank you also goes to Barbara, our guide, whose warmth and local knowledge helped us appreciate Calabria beyond the kitchen, and Isabella, our coordinator, who made everything run effortlessly while making us feel completely cared for throughout the week.
Looking back, it’s difficult to imagine the experience without them.
They weren’t simply part of the program.
They became part of the memories.
Flour, Pasta, and Plenty of Laughter
The days quickly filled with flour-covered countertops, rolling pins, and countless pasta shapes.
We learned different dough techniques and created a variety of traditional pastas, each with its own history and personality.
Somehow, being surrounded by all this baking equipment made me unexpectedly nostalgic. The sight of the mixers, pans, and racks brought me back to a time when we owned a bake shop and my mom filled our days with the aroma of fresh bread and sweet treats.
She baked the best pan de sal (sweet, soft local bread) I’ve ever tasted. People also loved her brownies, which somehow tasted just like a Baby Ruth chocolate bar. My favorites, though, were her empanaditas con casuy and her creamy maja blanca.
More than a year has passed since she left us, but moments like this remind me how deeply she remains a part of me. Sometimes all it takes is the smell of a bakery or the sight of baking tools to bring her rushing back into my heart. I miss her every day, and some days, like today, I miss her even more.
Meanwhile, the desserts we tasted there were just wow. I still need to get the recipe for their fluffy and lightly sweetened olive oil cake . 😋 mmm
One of my favorite moments was baking while overlooking the sea.
Some classrooms have windows.
This one had a panorama.
Some of my favorite memories weren’t tied to a specific recipe or lesson. They were the conversations around the dinner table, the laughter during class, and the friendships that formed so naturally along the way.
Everyone was simply happy to be there.
And that energy was infectious.
An Afternoon in Squillace
One afternoon, we visited Squillace, a charming hilltop town whose roots stretch back to ancient Magna Graecia, when southern Italy was heavily influenced by Greek civilization.
Known for centuries for its ceramics, Squillace remains one of Calabria’s most important pottery centers.
We visited a renowned pottery workshop where master artisans continue techniques passed down through generations. Watching traditional craftsmanship survive in the modern world felt incredibly special.
The town itself was wonderfully atmospheric, filled with winding streets, hidden corners, and beautiful churches.
Overlooking it all stands the impressive Norman Castle of Squillace, a medieval fortress that has guarded the town for centuries while offering sweeping views of the surrounding countryside and the Ionian Sea.
Pizza Day
Of course, no culinary adventure in Italy would be complete without pizza.
Stretching dough, debating toppings, and trying to channel our inner pizzaiolo made for one of the week’s most enjoyable sessions.
The Unexpected Highlight: Badolato
One excursion wasn’t even part of the original plan.
Joanna happened to have room for three additional people on a private tour, and through sheer luck, I was in the right place at the right time. Thank you.
That’s how I ended up in Badolato.
The village felt almost frozen in time.
As we wandered through its narrow stone passages, we saw remarkably few people. There were honestly more cats than residents out and about.
Yet the silence was part of its charm.
The architecture was stunning, and every corner looked like a scene from an old Italian film.
Walking through Badolato felt less like sightseeing and more like stepping into another era.
We also stopped at Fontana e Sena, a small hamlet where life moves at a slower pace and the traditions of rural Calabria remain beautifully preserved.
And then we met someone who would become one of the highlights of the trip.
His name is Pepe Argiro.
Pepe, a local resident in his seventies, generously shared his knowledge, stories, and love for the region. He guided us through steep hills and winding pathways with an energy that put the rest of us to shame. All the conversations with him took place using Google Translate yet the essence wasn’t lost . If any, the conversations became more endearing .
While I was definitely feeling the climb, Pepe never showed the slightest sign of fatigue.
He proudly showed us his garden, shared stories about the area, and gave us insights no guidebook could ever provide.
Then, in true Calabrian fashion, he insisted on treating us to wine and local delicacies.
His hospitality, generosity, and genuine pride in his hometown transformed an already memorable day into something extraordinary.
One of the most memorable stops was the Chiesa dell’Immacolata. We would have not reached this iconic landmark had it not been for Pepe showing us the place. To begin with I have never heard of the place. I felt we were truly guided to be able to experience this special historical spiritual marvel. Perched at the foot of the hill overlooking the sea and olive groves. Built in 1686 and restored in 1859, it is dedicated to the Immaculate Virgin Mary and is a symbol of both faith and local artistry. Somehow I did feel a strong connection to the refreshing energy of its walls and symbols.
There was something captivating about the energy of the place. It invited reflection and quiet appreciation.
A Taste of Everyday Calabria: Soverato
Between cooking classes and excursions, I had the opportunity to spend time in Soverato, often called the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea”.
One of my favorite experiences was visiting the local market.
And unlike other markets designed for tourists , this felt authentic and alive. Vendors proudly displayed fresh fruits and vegetables, local cheeses, cured meats, seafood, olives, spices, jams, and countless regional specialty . Everywhere you look, there were vibrant colors, conversations, and the unmistakable energy of daily Italian life.
From Calabria to Rome
As magical as Calabria was, the journey wasn’t quite over.
My final stop was Rome.
Returning to the Eternal City felt like reconnecting with an old friend. It had been years since my last visit, yet the moment I arrived, it felt both familiar and new.
What struck me most this time wasn’t necessarily the famous landmarks.
It was the churches.
I visited at least half a dozen of them, and each one possessed its own beauty, spirit, and character.
Some were grand and ornate.
Others felt intimate and serene.
Yet all of them shared a quality that invited quiet reflection.
I made it a point to say a prayer in each church and light a candle or two, taking a moment to appreciate the journey that had brought me there.
One of the highlights was returning to Vatican City, the world’s smallest independent state and the spiritual center of the Catholic Church.
Standing in St. Peter’s Square and gazing up at the magnificent dome designed by Michelangelo, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of history.
Millions visit every year, yet there remains a profound sense of reverence that transcends the crowds.
The Colosseum
No visit to Rome is complete without seeing the Colosseum.
Even after all these years, it remains one of the most awe-inspiring structures in the world.
Standing before it again, I couldn’t help but imagine the countless stories that unfolded within its walls over nearly two thousand years.
Trevi Fountain
One evening, I found myself mesmerized by the Trevi Fountain.
Every detail of the fountain is extraordinary. The sculptures seem almost alive as they emerge from the stone while water cascades endlessly below.
Adding to the experience was a light projection show that periodically illuminated the fountain’s backdrop, blending centuries-old artistry with modern storytelling.
Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps offered another perfect opportunity to slow down and simply observe.
Visitors from around the world gathered there, enjoying the sunshine, taking photos, and soaking in the atmosphere.
Café Life
And then there were the cafés.
By this point in the trip, I had fully embraced the Italian lifestyle.
Cappuccinos.
Pasta.
More pasta.
Desserts.
And then even more desserts.
Perhaps my favorite discovery was the pistachio cream-filled croissant, which quickly became a weakness I had absolutely no interest in resisting.
Somehow, despite an entire trip fueled by pastries, pasta, wine, gelato, and countless culinary indulgences, I stepped on the scale after returning home and discovered I weighed exactly the same.
To this day, I consider that one of Italy’s greatest mysteries.
Looking Back
As the trip came to an end, I realized it had given me far more than I expected.
I arrived hoping for a break from routine.
What I found was a deeper appreciation for food, culture, craftsmanship, faith, history, and human connection.
Calabria surprised me with its authenticity.
Rome reminded me of the grandeur of the past.
But most of all, I’ll remember the people.
The chefs who generously shared their knowledge.
My classmates, who shared their passion and curiosity.
And locals like Pepe, who reminded me that hospitality is still very much alive.
Long after the recipes fade and the photos settle into albums, it is these human connections that remain.
The beaches, the pasta, the churches, the castles, the pottery, the conversations, the laughter, and the countless unexpected moments all came together to create an experience far richer than any itinerary could have promised.
The real magic wasn’t in the places.
It was in the people who brought those places to life.
Abrakadabra, Calabria. You are magical !
Grazie, Italia. A presto ☺️
You got me.
P.S
By the way, it was the song by Coldplay’s “Magic” that nudged me to start typing away for this blog, more than a month after I had returned from Calabria. Perhaps that’s what music does best: it turns memory into magic, and magic into stories. Sharing the link here 🙂
The Grateful Travelers 